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Discovering Mozambique's Bazaruto Archipelago by sailboat
On a ship between islands
I don't get up early. Not for anything. Yet my watch gleams 5am as I step onto the deck of our 110-foot schooner, balancing my camera and a steaming cup of coffee as I get comfortable on a massive coil of fraying rope in the bow. The reason for this? I am about to bear sole and solitary witness to one of the world's most spectacular and awe-inspiring sunrises. And for this, even I will endure the wrathful hammering of my alarm clock at an hour when not a soul stirs in the watery world of Bazaruto, Mozambique.
You don't pass through this part of the world en route elsewhere. You don't stumble across it by accident either. I hear about this primeval archipelago, situated off the coast of Mozambique, from someone with tough sailor's hands and deep lines etched across his suntanned and wind-cured brow.
He speaks of a place of quicksilver tides and indigo waters, of desolate islands where pristine white beaches stretch for miles towards the watery horizons. Of the gentle lull of the Indian Ocean as one falls asleep at night, afloat amidst the coves and bays in a place where only fish and the spirit of the world dwell.
All aboard The Mieke!
The answer arrives in the form of The Mieke, a 110-foot Grand Bank Schooner replica, that traverses the seas of the globe. Owned and operated by Classic Sailing Adventures, this graceful dame was refurbished and converted for luxury charter usage during 2004.
Approximately 20 tons of oiled African hardwoods were used to construct her lounges, decks and cabins, giving one an impression of authenticity and a true craftsman's attention to detail. Originally used as a commercial fishing vessel, The Mieke has sailed as far as the Southern Atlantic in search of Patagonian toothfish. As such, she is equipped with state-of-the-art safety, navigational and communications equipment - and still up for game fishing in the deep sea.
The two on-board Aquamarine water makers, capable of desalinating up to a ton of freshwater per day, allows for leisurely showers whenever you feel like it. Two Volvo Penta diesel engines and a massive fuel capacity also give The Mieke the ability to undertake intercontinental exploration journeys of up to three months.
In short, The Mieke is the perfect vessel for island explorations. She serves as a platform for scuba diving, snorkelling, a variety of fishing disciplines as well as ocean kayaking, waterskiing and kneeboarding, the latter two courtesy of two custom-made tender boats.
Everything about this sojourn into the unknown feels right. There comes a point when no amount of gym or yoga will fix that slightly run-down look about your eyes, and it is round about then that you'll start dreaming about a place like the Bazaruto Archipelago. And, chances are, there's nothing better than a visit to this enigmatic place to cure you of that numb world-weariness.
How to get to Mozambique
The small Pelican Air turbo-prop aircraft banks and makes its final descent across the lush-green Mozambican landscape less than two hours after departing from Johannesburg International, South Africa. As we land at the Airport in coastal town Vilanculos, one cannot help but notice the odd pothole in the bouncy runway. The late afternoon air is balmy and we are welcomed by a team of jovial airport attendants.
From the moment you set foot on Mozambican soil, something is markedly different. You can almost smell it, it's so strong. A quietly elated routine that flows in dignified sync with the changing of the tides, the Mozambican way of life defies all hurry and impatience. There is never too little time to speak respectfully and at length to another. It is only the first incident on this trip to start coaxing all of us into thought and introspection.
Life's a beach
A short 4x4 trip through the scattered rural establishments of Vilanculos gives one a very accurate impression of Mozambique's local culture and lifestyle. Brightly clad vendors sell fruit and hand-made wares next to the side of the dusty roads, while scantily clad children pause their games to grin and wave at us.
Derelict buildings and poverty still attest to the country's stormy political past, yet it seems that not even 10 years of civil war was going to get the Mozambicans' good spirits down. On this stretch of the African coastline, things are laid-back and chilled.
Upon arriving at the Vilanculos Beach Lodge, a whole troop of local youngsters pick up the bulk of our luggage and diligently lug it through the shallow surf and into the tender boats. There's a lot of quips and laughter transpiring in Portuguese. Not one of these boys has a care in the world, and it shows on their genuine-smiled faces.
Sitting quietly on the raised aft deck, the balmy breeze running across your skin, there is nothing better than soaking up the solitude and serenity of a world that seems light years removed from anything you know. Mozambique holds a sensory onslaught of vistas that change with time and tide, location and meteorological fluctuation.
Just when you think it cannot be an ounce more beautiful, you turn around only to be confronted with another breathtaking play between sun and water, shadows and shallows.
Initially, you think about home and returning to normality after your marine travels in Mozambique. By the third day, you're seriously considering not going back again. Ever.
Bazaruto is a place of magic, of sensory bewitchment and suspended timelessness. You don't know what the time is, and you don't care.
Mozambique's sub-tropical climate makes it an ideal travel destination throughout the year. Go in December if you're after high temperatures and loads of sunshine, or sometime around June if you'd prefer a somewhat cooler trip.
Gone fishing
The Mieke has a will of her own. Without it really being discussed much, we lift anchor and fire the diesels for 12 Mile Bank, where Barracudas go when they feel like picking a fight with heavyweight hooks and stainless steel tracers.
And nobody's saying anything, but everyone's thinking about it:
"What if I catch a Marlin today?"
Unfortunately, however, none of us catch any swordfish. Yet upon arrival at 12 Mile Bank, the barracudas are striking like rogue militiamen and rapidly everyone's strapping on harnesses and buckets as we take the fight to these predators of the deep on the fishing platforms.
Our on-board "amphibians" resurface from their scuba diving exploration, raving about epic coral and countless species of fish. From the sounds of it, it's rush hour traffic on the seabed and for the nth time during the trip I regret not having a scuba licence.
As it stands, the Bazaruto Archipelago draws scores of scuba divers to Mozambique each year. It is also a Mecca for fishermen of all descriptions.
One of the guests on our trip is a professional fisherman specialising in saltwater fly-fishing. He shows us the ropes, flies and reels, and in no time at all the flies are flicking off our sandbank and into eager fish mouths. Or so we hope!
I attempt combining my newly acquired skill with sea kayaking, yet after almost getting a hook caught in my ear and nearly drowning I conclude that some things are best left to the pros. A beer helps soothe my wounded ego. And so does the seafood feast served on deck!
"Seafood please!"
Mozambique is seafood heaven. Although The Mieke's professional chef does cater for the culinary requirements of vegetarians and non-seafood eaters, his forte is mouth-watering seafood creations. We are treated to everything from LM tiger prawns and crayfish to calamari and an array of exotic fish dishes. We eat ourselves to a standstill; and still go back for seconds!
Sundowners in paradise
I awake in the back bunk as the sun starts dipping and we re-enter the quiet waters between the islands.
We load the tender boats and head for Isle de Santa Carolina, also known as Paradise Island, for the braai of a lifetime on this island at the edge of the world. The sun sets spectacularly as we become ever more aware of the solitude and beauty of Bazaruto.
The Mieke's crew accompany us, with many outrageous and fascinating tales told as the evening progresses. They're a very charismatic bunch, and as the days amble on we spend more time in their company.
So when are we returning?
On the final afternoon of the trip we all pile into the tender boats and head for Marlin Lodge on Benguerra Island, arguably the most well-known island in the Bazaruto Archipelago.
Sipping our cold beers in the lodge's solid hardwood bar with the African sun setting behind our backs, we unanimously propose a toast:
To this being as good as life gets.
Back home, you feel rejuvenated, yet strangely out of place in a world intent on chasing to the ticking of clocks like a dog chasing its own tail. Although your trip to Mozambique was only a holiday, you bring home memories and a peace that money can't buy. So if you haven't booked your trip yet, now is the ideal time to do so!
Visit www.Classic-sailing-adventures.com for more information on this unique mode of travel and exploration, or contact us to make a booking.
Show us your visa
Holiday visas for Mozambique are obtained at the airport customs desk for approximately 12 US Dollars (80 South African Rands) without any hassles. Rands, US Dollars and the Mozambican Metical (MZM), are accepted for this, yet no credit card facilities exist at the Vilanculos airport.
It's also advisable to take a substantial amount of hard US currency as ATM's are few and far between on the Mozambican coast. The bigger holiday lodges and hotels do, however, accept most major credit cards. If you're on The Mieke, however, you're additional expenditure during the trip should be minimal as most drinks and all food costs are covered.
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